Grand Tour of the West and the Californian Coast

Wrapped in the fog that drifts in from the bay and draped over steep hills facing the Pacific, San Francisco is one of America's most beloved cities, refined, rebellious and deeply cosmopolitan. Its symbol is the Golden Gate Bridge, the unmistakable red span reaching out towards the ocean, revealed and hidden by the morning mists. To walk the city is to be surprised by its rolling streets, still climbed today by the famous cable cars that scale the heights of Nob Hill and Russian Hill, offering sudden glimpses of the water. Along the Fisherman's Wharf waterfront the sea lions of Pier 39 bark and the air smells of sourdough bread and fresh crab, while offshore stands the island of Alcatraz, with its historic penitentiary reachable by boat. The charm of San Francisco lives in its neighbourhoods: the Victorian Painted Ladies around Alamo Square, the Chinese energy of Chinatown, the oldest and liveliest in America, the rainbow, activist streets of the Castro, and the bohemian ferment of Haight-Ashbury, cradle of hippie culture. At the city's core, Union Square buzzes with shopping and theatres, while the Civic Center and museums such as SFMOMA and the de Young reveal its cultured soul. Green spaces abound: the vast Golden Gate Park holds Japanese gardens, conservatories and trails down to the ocean. The dining scene is among the most innovative in the country, from fusion cuisine to the wines of the nearby Napa and Sonoma Valley and organic markets. From San Francisco it is easy to set out for California's national parks, the redwoods of Muir Woods and the Big Sur coast. Free, creative and swept by the ocean wind, San Francisco wins over anyone willing to be led by its hills and its suspended light.

You leave the big city on the bay for the region at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, which in 1849 was at the center of the Gold Rush. Yosemite National Park is one of the world's most famous natural sanctuaries, set among the granite peaks of California's Sierra Nevada and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Yosemite Valley opens between the imposing walls of El Capitan and Half Dome, the thundering waterfalls such as Yosemite Falls and the meadows crossed by the Merced River. Forests of giant sequoias and alpine plateaus complete a legendary landscape. Yosemite is the ideal destination for those seeking grand nature, climbing and the iconic wilderness of California.

The Tioga Pass is crossed at an altitude of about 3000 meters above sea level, in a magnificent and picturesque landscape. Mammoth Lakes rises among the granite peaks of the eastern Sierra Nevada, a lively mountain resort in California and a paradise for outdoor lovers in every season. In winter, Mammoth Mountain is among the most renowned ski areas in the state, while in summer the region transforms into a mosaic of alpine lakes, trails and hot springs. The Mammoth Lakes basin offers crystalline bodies of water framed by peaks, ideal for fishing, kayaking and hiking, while nearby lie the spectacular Rainbow Falls and the bizarre basalt formations of Devils Postpile National Monument. In summer the Tioga Pass opens the most direct gateway to the high Sierra of Yosemite National Park, through breathtaking high-altitude landscapes.

From Mammoth Lakes, you can reach Bishop, make a stop for a snack with the famous sandwiches from Erick Schat's Bakkery, and continue to Lone Pine, the backdrop of many famous films, and take photos of the Mobius Arch in Alabama Hills. Continue to Panaminta Springs and take the Death Valley Scenic Byway, which gives you access to a vast array of spectacular landscapes, rare desert animals, and historical sites. This road crosses carved hills, dunes, and descends below sea level. The environmental conditions are harsh (make sure to have plenty of water with you) and it's no wonder that many scenic points have names like Funeral Mountains, Furnace Creek, Dante's View, Coffin Peak, and Devil's Golf Course. The Visitor Center is located in Furnace Creek. Scotty's Castle used to be one of the most visited attractions, but the access road will be closed until 2020 due to a flood in Gravepine Canyon in 2015. More accessible attractions include Artists Palette (following the scenic Artists Drive), Harmony Borax Works, Badwater, Devil's Golf Course, Zabriskie Point, and the splendid panoramic balcony of Dante's View (best seen early in the morning, at the end of a 34 km detour along CA 190 and another 16 km of steep and winding road). Before venturing into Death Valley, we recommend checking the "Alerts" on the National Park website - https://www.nps.gov/deva/index.htm, for up-to-date information on road conditions and access to various scenic points. On the way to Las Vegas, you can stop for supplies and refreshments in Pahrump. Las Vegas rises like a luminous mirage in the Mojave Desert, the world capital of entertainment, where excess becomes spectacle and the night never ends. Its pulsing artery is the Strip, the famous Las Vegas Boulevard lined with themed resorts that recreate the planet's great icons in miniature: at the Bellagio, fountains dance in choreographies of water and music before an artificial lake; the Paris Las Vegas is crowned by a replica of the Eiffel Tower; at the Venetian, gondoliers glide along Venetian-style canals beneath painted skies; at the Luxor, a black glass pyramid and a great sphinx evoke ancient Egypt, while the Mirage and the other gaming giants animate the scene with dazzling casinos. By night the city becomes a continuous stage: Cirque du Soleil shows, concerts, magic acts and residencies by major stars fill the theatres, while celebrated restaurants and gaming tables keep the metropolis awake until dawn. A short distance away, historic Downtown preserves the city's original face around the Fremont Street Experience, a pedestrian arcade canopied by a barrel vault of LED lights that brings the old Las Vegas back to life amid vintage neon signs and a more intimate atmosphere. Yet Las Vegas is also the gateway to magnificent natural landscapes: nearby, the Hoover Dam blocks the Colorado River to create Lake Mead, an ideal basin for boating and outdoor activities; Red Rock Canyon offers red sandstone formations crossed by trails and climbing walls; the Valley of Fire sets the desert ablaze with scarlet rock; and to the east opens the immensity of the Grand Canyon, one of the most beloved day trips. The city's most theatrical tradition is here too, that of the wedding chapels where couples marry in minutes, now an integral part of its legend. Between lights, desert and desire, Las Vegas remains a place where anything seems possible.

From the expanse of lights and golden skyscrapers of Las Vegas, through the Nevada desert, you reach the magnificent scenery of red rocks and green forests of Bryce. Before leaving the desert, however, if you have time, you might consider taking exit 75 from Interstate I-15 to Valley of Fire State Park (entrance fee $10 per car, subject to change without notice), a detour of about 70 km to one of the most photogenic places in the Southwest, a stunning landscape dominated by the red color of petrified dunes, cliffs, and oddly shaped rocks. Return to I-15 following RT 169. We recommend leaving I-15 after St George, taking Route 9 to Zion National Park at exit 16. Since Bryce Canyon is less than two hours from Zion, if your schedule allows, you can leave your car at the Visitor Center and take one of the convenient shuttle buses, the only means of transportation allowed in the narrow Zion Canyon, following the course of the Virgin River between towering red rock walls. Alternatively, continue along RT 9, with breathtaking scenery, but be sure to make a stop at Checkerboard Mesa. At Mount Carmel Junction, take a refreshment break for a slice of "Ho-made pie" at the Thunderbird Restaurant; try the strawberry and rhubarb flavor. Bryce Canyon National Park reveals one of the most astonishing landscapes on Earth, a vast natural amphitheatre dotted with hoodoos, amber and pink rock spires sculpted by erosion on the Utah plateau. Viewpoints such as Sunrise and Sunset Point offer breathtaking views at dawn and dusk, while trails descend among the formations into the heart of the canyon. The high elevation ensures some of America's starriest night skies.

The road from Bryce Canyon to Moab (about 5 hours) will be one of the most memorable of your trip if you take Scenic Byway 12. Scenic Byway 12 crosses extremely varied landscapes: remnants of ancient seabeds, the highest alpine forests on the planet, stunning red and pink rock spires, and expanses of wild sagebrush. Surrounded by red sandstone spires and wind-carved plateaus, Moab is the outdoor-adventure capital of Utah. Set along the Colorado River, this lively town is the gateway to two spectacular national parks: Arches, with its more than two thousand natural arches including the famous Delicate Arch, and Canyonlands, where the gorges stretch as far as the eye can see. Mountain biking on the legendary Slickrock Trail, rafting the Colorado rapids, hiking and off-road tours draw travellers from around the world. At sunset the rock glows with orange and crimson hues, while at night the pristine skies reveal a brilliant Milky Way. Don't miss Dead Horse Point, with its breathtaking view over the river's bends. Moab is the perfect starting point for those seeking the American desert in its wildest form.

As you head south, the landscape of Utah becomes increasingly spectacular. The road winds through a primordial territory of rocks, petrified dunes, strange boulders like the stone sombrero that gives its name to the town of Mexican Hat, and the winding meanders carved by the San Juan River. Monument Valley raises in the desert on the Arizona–Utah border its iconic spires of red sandstone, an immortal symbol of the American West. Part of the Navajo Nation, this sacred landscape has been captured in countless films and photographs, with its mesas and pinnacles outlined against the sky. Navajo-guided tours reveal the culture and legends of the place. Monument Valley is the grand, silent quintessence of the American frontier.

Today's stage takes you from Monument Valley to Page / Lake Powell in about 2 hours (200 km), crossing the largest Native American reservation in the USA, the Navajo Indian Reservation, which extends beyond the Arizona border into New Mexico and Utah with a population of about 200,000 Navajo. Follow Route 163 south for about 40 km until Kayenta, where you can refuel. Here, turn onto Route 160, which you will follow for about 55 km, then turn right onto Navajo Mountain Scenic Road (Route 98), named after a sacred mountain to the Navajo, Hopi, and Paiute tribes. The road crosses desert expanses with sparse vegetation that provides nourishment for sheep and horses and plays an important role in Navajo culture. Yucca roots are used to make shampoo, while other plants are used for medicinal infusions or dyeing fabrics. You will pass through the small community of Kaibito, which has a small store. In the last stretch of road before reaching Page, if you have time, make a stop at Horseshoe Bend, about 7 km from the center of Page. The Horseshoe Bend overlook is reached by a 2.5 km walk along an easy dirt trail. Bring water with you. Page was founded in the heart of the northern Arizona desert as a small service town for the construction of the Glen Canyon Dam, and is today an ideal base for exploring some of the most spectacular landscapes of the American Southwest. A few minutes away opens Lake Powell, a vast turquoise reservoir set among red sandstone canyons, a paradise for boat trips and houseboats. Nearby lie two icons of travel photography: Antelope Canyon, a slot canyon with undulating walls pierced by beams of light, and Horseshoe Bend, the dramatic curve of the Colorado River wrapping around a rock spur. The area, home to the Navajo Nation, offers guided tours, fiery sunsets and starry skies of rare purity.

The journey from Page to Grand Canyon National Park is about 230 km and takes about 3 hours. If you haven't been to Horseshoe Bend during your stop in Page, make a stop now. The Horseshoe Bend viewpoint, about 7 km from Page, can be reached by a 2.5 km walk along an easy dirt trail. Bring water with you. Leaving Page, follow Route 89 via Bitter Spring through desert lands until you reach Cameron, where you will find one of the authentic Southwest trading posts. From Cameron, take Route 64, which climbs towards the Kaibab Forest. Don't miss the viewpoint of the deep and narrow canyon of the Little Colorado River, about 18 km from Cameron. Enter Grand Canyon National Park from the park's eastern entrance (East Entrance) following Desert View Drive (Route 64), which runs along the edge of the canyon for about 40 km with several scenic viewpoints: we recommend Grand View, Moran, Lipan, Navajo Point, and Desert View. The South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park is the most visited side of one of the planet's most famous natural wonders, in Arizona. From here open dizzying vistas over the immense gorge carved by the Colorado River, over 1,600 metres deep and up to 29 kilometres wide. Grand Canyon Village, the historic El Tovar Hotel and overlooks such as Mather Point and Yavapai Point offer unforgettable views. Trails like the Bright Angel Trail descend toward the river. A geological spectacle and UNESCO World Heritage Site, the South Rim leaves visitors breathless.

The journey from the Grand Canyon to Lake Havasu has several interesting points. You descend along Route 64 through the ponderosa pines of the Kaibab National Forest until you reach Williams, where we recommend a short stop before getting on the I-40 highway. Williams' Main Street is the best-preserved stretch of Route 66 in the USA: at every corner, you can see old gas pumps, diners, jukeboxes, and various memories from the 1950s. Continue on Interstate I-40 until you reach Kingman, a historic mining and railroad town founded in 1880. Here, in 1939, Hollywood stars Clark Gable and Carole Lombard got married at St. John's Methodist Episcopal Church, 1730 Kino Ave. To reach Lake Havasu City from Kingman, you have two options: continue for 96 km along Interstate I-40 and then Route 95, or take the old Route 66 passing through Oatman until the village of Topock (80 km) with an additional 60 km between I-40 and US-95. The stretch of Route 66 between Kingman and Topock is the most spectacular section in the Southwest, at times very steep and winding, passing through old mining towns in the cactus-dotted desert and the rugged Black Mountains. Lake Havasu City is mirrored on the shores of a large reservoir of the Colorado River, on the border between Arizona and California, deep in the Mojave Desert. Its most curious attraction is the London Bridge, the genuine London bridge purchased in the 1960s and rebuilt stone by stone, around which an English-style village of shops and restaurants has grown. The lake, with more than two hundred and fifty miles of shoreline and almost perpetual sunshine, is a paradise for water sports: powerboats, kayaks, fishing and beaches reachable only by water. The hidden coves and canyons that plunge into the turquoise waters make it a lively year-round destination, loved by those seeking sun, relaxation and outdoor adventure.

To reach Los Angeles from Lake Havasu without going back on your steps to take the I-40, you can head south along RT 95, RT 62, and RT 177 and then merge onto the I-10, which runs along Joshua Tree National Park and leads to Palm Springs, and from there to Los Angeles. Before Palm Springs, you pass through the town of Indio, which has been hosting the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival (simply known as "Coachella") every April since 1999. It is a three-day event featuring rock and alternative music with the most famous artists and bands, attracting tens of thousands of spectators. The entire journey is about 480 km. Los Angeles, home to Hollywood, Disneyland, and Universal Studios, is the epitome of carefree living for visitors: year-round sunshine, palm trees swaying in the wind, movie stars with luxurious residences in the hills of Beverly Hills, stunning museums, avant-garde architecture, and surf beaches.

Miles of golden sand and waves made for surfing define Pismo Beach, a lively seaside resort set along California's central coast. Famous for generations for its carefree summer atmosphere, the town centres on the historic pier reaching out over the ocean, a gathering point for anglers and sunset lovers. The broad sandy expanses are perfect for long walks, while the nearby Oceano Dunes invite off-road trails and outdoor adventures. Between November and February, groves of eucalyptus host thousands of monarch butterflies that overwinter here, creating a remarkable natural spectacle. Between a feast of fried clams, a visit to the wineries of nearby Edna Valley and a sunny day on the shore, Pismo Beach embodies the authentic, sun-drenched spirit of coastal California.

Monterey stretches along its namesake bay on California's central coast, where the nature of the Pacific puts on a show. Its celebrated Monterey Bay Aquarium, overlooking the old canning district of Cannery Row immortalised by John Steinbeck, ranks among the finest in the world. From here begins the scenic 17-Mile Drive, winding past wind-sculpted cypresses, cliffs and coastal mansions to Pebble Beach. Nearby, Carmel-by-the-Sea charms with its art galleries and white beaches, while the bay rewards visitors with sightings of whales, otters and sea lions. Between seafood cuisine and inland vineyards, Monterey is an invitation to experience the most authentic and wild side of California.