DISCOVERING BALI

Seminyak is Bali's most glamorous and cosmopolitan face, an elegant beach resort on the island's south-western coast, famed for its golden-sand beaches, spectacular sunsets over the Indian Ocean and a refined lifestyle culture. Along avenues such as Jalan Kayu Aya — the so-called "Eat Street" — designer boutiques, art galleries, luxury spas and acclaimed restaurants follow one another, ranging from Balinese cooking to international cuisine. The wide beaches of Seminyak and neighbouring Petitenget, watched over by the seafront Petitenget temple, are dotted with beach clubs where the sunset aperitivo is a ritual. A few minutes inland lie rice terraces and wellness retreats set amid greenery. An ideal destination for those seeking sea, design and sophisticated nightlife, Seminyak blends Bali's spiritual soul with contemporary elegance.

Ubud rises among the terraced rice fields and rainforests of Bali's mountainous heart, long recognised as the island's cultural and spiritual capital. Far from the beaches of the south, it draws travellers seeking art, wellbeing and a more authentic Bali of temples, sacred dances and drifting incense. The town's heart beats around Jalan Raya Ubud and the covered art market, where textiles, wood carvings and paintings blend into everyday life. Nearby stands Puri Saren Agung, the royal palace still inhabited by the ruling family, which hosts evening performances of traditional dance such as the Legong and the thunderous Kecak, sung by dozens of male voices. Along Jalan Monkey Forest lies the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, a sacred grove home to macaques and dotted with moss-covered temples. Just outside the centre, Pura Taman Saraswati enchants with its lotus pond, while the nearby Pura Tirta Empul, a sacred spring where Balinese purify themselves in the waters, and the rock-cut complex of Goa Gajah (the Elephant Cave) tell the region's long spiritual story. Around Ubud the landscape unfolds into some of Bali's most famous scenery: the terraced rice paddies of Tegallalang, shaped by the ancient subak irrigation system recognised by UNESCO, and the artisan villages of Mas, Celuk and Batuan, specialising in carving, silverwork and painting. Days may begin with a sunrise yoga class, a stroll along the Campuhan Ridge Walk through green hills, or a Balinese cooking class amid spices, sambal and babi guling. Further north lie excursions to the Tegenungan waterfalls and the volcanoes, while jungle-set cafés and refined spas complete the unhurried mood. Ubud is best experienced slowly, guided by the sound of gamelan and the endless green of the rice fields.

Black volcanic sand and an unusually calm sea define Lovina, a stretch of coast in northern Bali gathered around the village of Kalibukbuk. Far from mass tourism, it is famed for dawn boat trips in search of the dolphins that play offshore, a sight that has become the area’s emblem. Its quiet, reef-sheltered waters make it ideal for snorkelling and for those seeking to unwind. Inland lie the Banjar hot springs and the Buddhist monastery of Brahmavihara-Arama, while towards the hills cascade the Gitgit and Sekumpul waterfalls. Lovina is Bali’s serene, authentic north: slow sunsets, gentle rhythms and the morning encounter with the dolphins.

Candidasa stretches along Bali’s eastern coast, a tranquil seaside town facing the Lombok Strait and ringed by green hills. Once a fishing village, it is now a relaxed base for exploring the island’s more traditional side: nearby lies Tenganan, one of the oldest Bali Aga villages, keeper of the unique double-ikat geringsing weaving art. The offshore waters offer diving and snorkelling towards the Gili Tepekong islets, while the lagoon and its lotus gardens frame the seafront. From here the Tirta Gangga water palace and the mother temple of Besakih on the slopes of Agung are within easy reach. Candidasa is the serene face of east Bali, where culture, sea and nature coexist far from the bustle of the south.

Synonymous with exclusivity and refinement, Nusa Dua is Bali's enclave of grand resorts, an elegant, neatly planned complex at the island's southern tip, designed to offer high-end hospitality amid pristine beaches and manicured gardens. Long stretches of white sand lapped by calm, reef-sheltered waters are ideal for swimming and water sports, while the Water Blow headland offers the spectacle of ocean waves crashing against the rocks. Pedestrian paths, golf courses and a shopping gallery wind among the resorts, and the nearby Nusa Dua peninsula holds scenic clifftop temples overlooking the sea. A short distance away, the fishing village of Tanjung Benoa is the launch point for parasailing, jet skiing and island excursions. Nusa Dua is the ideal destination for a holiday of pure relaxation, comfort and crystal-clear waters.